Leather alternatives made from mushroom mycelium, fruit by-products and leaves have captured a lot of attention, and for good reason. They draw on renewable biomass, can use agricultural waste, and suggest a very different relationship between fashion and nature. But there is a trap in the language we use to describe them.
The assumption
“Plant-based” sounds as though it should mean “goes back to nature”. Often it does not, at least not automatically. The source of a material and its fate are two separate things.
Where the trouble hides
The raw ingredient, such as mycelium or fruit fibre, may be perfectly biodegradable. The finished product, however, is rarely just the raw ingredient. To make a material that is strong, flexible, water-resistant and attractive, manufacturers commonly add:
- binders and resins to hold fibres together
- plasticisers to keep the material supple
- coatings to resist water and wear
- backing fabrics for strength
- dyes and finishes
Any of these may be derived from fossil sources, or may slow or prevent breakdown. A plant-based material with a polyurethane coating is, in effect, a material with a plastic layer.
Biobased is not biodegradable either
A related confusion is between biobased (made from biomass) and biodegradable (capable of being broken down by microbes). A material can be one, both or neither. Some biobased plastics are not biodegradable at all, and some fossil-based ones are. Carbon origin and end-of-life behaviour need to be tested separately.
Test, then tell
None of this is a criticism of the new materials. It is a reason to measure rather than assume. The sequence we usually suggest is:
- a Quick Screen to find out whether the material shows signs of breaking down
- ISO 20200 to confirm disintegration under industrial composting conditions
- EcoTox testing to check what the breakdown leaves behind
- plant response testing to see whether the compost supports growth
A material that passes all four has a story it can tell with confidence. One that does not has information it can use to improve.
The opportunity
The brands that do well in this space will be those that can say not just “made from plants” but “and here is the evidence of what happens next”. That is a real competitive advantage in a market full of vague claims.
If you are developing a biomaterial, we would love to hear about it.
By Authenticae. Back to the blog